Two weeks ago I took a long weekend to Chicago, one of my favorite places in the whole world. I love visiting Chicago because I know I will *always* be back, so there is zero pressure to over plan.
This trip centered around visiting two of my closest friends from college, Kelsey and Sandy. Kelsey and Sandy inhabited different corners at Knox and now inhabit different corners of Chicago, but I love seeing both of them and reuniting us. My aforementioned travel buddy Kathryn hopped on the trip as well, which is amazing because if all goes to plan I will see her four times this year, a record since I moved to Oregon. 🥲 My agenda for this trip was to see lots of art, eat something adjacent to The Bear, eat a hot dog, and buy some White Sox gear.
It was hot when we arrived, but not unbearably so. We walked to Lilac Tiger, a South Asian bar in Wicker Park. Kelsey and her husband Zack ordered the perfect amount of food for our group and the drinks were refreshing, and importantly, not too sweet. We walked to Rainbow Cone, a place I’ve been wanting to try for years. I got the classic cone: five flavors sliced, not scooped. I made the mistake of getting it in a cup, thinking it would be less messy that way. Don’t make my mistake — it would have been better on the titular cone.
We walked back home and stayed up awhile chatting before firming up our Saturday plans: Kasama bakery, the Museum of Contemporary Art, and the Art Institute.
Sandy did the true hero’s work of getting to Kasama as they opened (Bear adjacent ✔), and though you can place an order for takeout and skip the line, I’m glad we were able to eat inside. Everything we ordered was impeccable, but my favorite was the ham and cheese danish.
Sandy works in museums, and listening to her talk about Nicole Eisenman’s show What Happened at the MCA Chicago was an absolute gift. I love seeing people in their element. Sandy is so knowledgeable about art and always inspires me to get out of my own way and actually make things. If you are in Chicago this summer, definitely take time to go to see this work. Start with the video overview of the exhibition which is hilariously narrated by Ryan McNamara.
After the MCA, we went to Art Institute of Chicago specifically to see a Georgia O’Keeffe exhibition called “My New Yorks.” I never knew she spent any time in New York or painted cityscapes. It’s perfectly curated and miraculously wasn’t all that crowded. Perhaps this is a common sense approach, but I find museums much more enjoyable when I am going to see a very specific wing, floor, or exhibit instead of trying to “get my money’s worth.”
After the art (✔), we went back to Kelsey’s house to change shoes and freshen up before heading out to a vintage market, where I found a cute blue sweatshirt with tiger paw prints on the sleeve. We went to a dive bar after for burgers and fries, and then to Estereo for summery cocktails. We ended up at Jeni’s. I walked through the line, sampled the flavors unfamiliar to me, and dropped $2 in the tip jar without ordering anything, which is apparently transgressive but makes perfect sense to me. We got home and watched Forrest Gump; canon in my house, but Kelsey had never seen it. I love being with people watching a movie I love for the first time! I was perhaps a little obnoxious about quoting all of my favorite lines, but I think Kelsey enjoyed it.
The next morning we got breakfast with Sandy’s dad at 5 Rabanitos. The threshold of friendship people don’t talk about enough is how good it feels to know and love parents of your friends. The food was incredible and, it must be said in 2024, well-priced and generous with serving size. He dropped us off at Sandy’s apartment and we got to spend some time just hanging out in her space, which is filled with light, art, and plants.
For dinner on Sunday night Kelsey made us a reservation at Brasero, a wood fired South American restaurant. Out of everything we ordered, I’m still dreaming about the bread, hamachi, sweet potatoes, and the coconut soft serve.
On Monday, Kelsey and Sandy had to go back to work, so Kathryn and I set out for Wiener’s Circle (✔) and Lincoln Park Zoo. If we must have zoos, they should be free! What a gift to the parents of young children in Chicago.
While walking around the city I already planned out my next trip, this time with Jonny and Ari — architecture boat tour, Museum of Science and Industry, and a Sox game. I can’t wait! If you have any other tips, I’d love to hear.
My husband and I have ties to Chicago and Southern Wisconsin (family and a cheese festival), so we have been heading out that way for the past three years, thanks to our son. We feel very lucky to "have" to go to Chicago every year. I think of the author of The School for Good Mothers when she called Philadelphia a "toy city". Those words hurt but she is right, especially since she is from Chicago which is not a toy city. Every time I pass one of their public indoor natatoriums, I think that.
The Chicago History Museum has a great sensory exhibit. My son got turned into a hot dog! They also have a cool transportation room and a whole section on the fire, with interactive stuff for the young firefighter in your life. It's a great spot if you are in Lincoln Park and want to get inside due to heat or rain or just want to become a Chicago dog!
Brasero looks great! Definitely putting that on my list.
I always forget that you love the white Sox so yayyyy